Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their children are unwilling to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
